How to Preserve Outdoor Wicker Furniture?

Preserving outdoor wicker comes down to four habits: clean it two or three times a year with mild soapy water, keep it dry and off wet ground, shade it from prolonged direct sun, and cover or store it through winter. Natural wicker also needs an occasional protective coat of clear sealer, while synthetic resin wicker does not. Get those right and a woven set will look good for many seasons rather than fading and splitting after two.

The first thing to establish is which type you own, because the care differs significantly. Natural wicker is woven from plant materials such as rattan, willow, cane or bamboo, and it absorbs moisture. Synthetic wicker is woven from resin strands, usually polyethylene, over an aluminium or steel frame, and it does not. Most garden furniture sold in Britain for outdoor use is synthetic, precisely because our climate is hard on natural fibres.

Routine Cleaning

Twice a year is enough for most sets: once in spring before the season starts and once in autumn before storage. Add a third clean in high summer if the furniture sits under trees, where sap and bird droppings accumulate.

Start dry. Brush the weave with a soft bristle brush to lift loose dirt out of the crevices, working along the direction of the weave rather than across it. A dry vacuum with a brush attachment does this well and is quicker on a large corner set.

Then wash with warm water and a small amount of washing up liquid. Use a cloth or sponge for flat areas and a soft brush for the weave. Wipe rather than scrub, and pay attention to the underside of arms and the back of seat panels where dirt sits unnoticed and holds moisture.

Rinse with clean water. On synthetic wicker a garden hose on a gentle setting is fine. On natural wicker use a damp cloth instead, because soaking the fibres is the main cause of long term damage.

Dry it properly. Tip chairs forward or on their side so water runs out of the weave rather than sitting inside the frame. Leave the set in a breezy spot until completely dry before replacing cushions or fitting a cover.

What Not to Use

A pressure washer is the most common cause of ruined wicker. The jet forces water deep into the weave and can break individual strands or lift the resin coating. Even on a wide setting the risk is not worth it.

Avoid bleach, solvents, white spirit and abrasive cream cleaners. They strip the protective surface on synthetic strands and discolour natural fibres. Steel wool and stiff wire brushes leave permanent scratches that then collect dirt faster.

Be cautious with any product marketed for decking or masonry, as those are formulated for hard porous surfaces and are usually too aggressive for a woven finish.

Caring for Natural Wicker

Natural fibres need more attention. Keep them out of prolonged rain, which means a covered porch, a veranda or bringing pieces inside when the weather turns. Left out through a British winter, natural wicker will swell, dry, crack and eventually unravel at the joins.

Once a year, after cleaning and once fully dry, apply a thin coat of clear exterior sealer or a suitable furniture oil. This replaces the natural oils the fibres lose and slows down drying and cracking. Apply sparingly with a brush, work it into the weave and wipe off any excess so it does not sit in pools that go sticky.

Humidity is worth thinking about too. Natural wicker in a completely dry indoor environment can become brittle, which is why pieces stored in a heated room over winter sometimes crack. An unheated garage or shed is often better than a warm room.

If a strand does break, deal with it early. A single loose end can be worked back into the weave and secured, while a broken strand left alone will pull others out with it.

Caring for Synthetic Resin Wicker

Synthetic wicker is far more forgiving and needs no sealing or oiling. Its main enemies are sunlight and heat rather than water. Prolonged ultraviolet exposure fades colour and can make strands brittle over years, so shade helps considerably. Positioning a set where it gets afternoon shade, or using a parasol, extends its life noticeably.

Check the frame as well as the weave. Powder coated aluminium frames resist corrosion well, and aluminium will not rust, though a chipped coating should be touched up. Steel frames need closer attention, since any exposed metal will corrode and rust marks bleed through the weave.

Feet and glides are worth inspecting each spring. Worn plastic feet let the frame sit directly on paving where it can scratch, and on grass they let the frame sit in damp. Replacing them is inexpensive and prevents a bigger problem.

If you are choosing new pieces, look at the strand thickness and the density of the weave, since a tightly woven set with thicker strands holds its shape better under weight. Our modern garden armchairs UK sale include woven designs on aluminium frames, which is the combination that copes best with British weather.

Cushions and Fabrics

Cushions rarely fail because of the fabric. They fail because the foam inside stays damp. Bring cushions in whenever rain is likely, and never store them under a cover while damp.

Wash covers according to the label, air dry them fully and only refit them when the foam is completely dry. Quick dry foam with open cells is a considerable improvement if you are replacing cushion inserts, since it drains rather than holding water.

A dedicated storage box is the practical answer. It keeps cushions dry, saves carrying them indoors repeatedly and means the furniture is usable at short notice. Our modern garden storage UK includes boxes sized for cushion sets.

Winter Protection

The best winter option is indoors: a garage, shed or summer house. Stack or nest what you can, keep pieces off a concrete floor by standing them on battens or pallets, and leave gaps between items so air moves.

Where storing inside is not possible, cover the set properly. Use a breathable cover with air vents rather than a plain plastic sheet, which traps condensation and creates a damp microclimate. Make sure the furniture is dry before covering, fasten all straps, and lift the cover on dry days occasionally to let air through.

Raise the furniture off wet ground if it stays outside. Feet standing in a puddle or on saturated soil all winter will corrode and, on natural wicker, wick moisture up into the weave. A couple of paving slabs solve it. The same applies to woven dining sets, so check the feet on our modern garden dining sets UK before the first frost arrives.

Check the set mid winter after any period of strong wind. Covers ride up, and a loose cover flapping against the weave does more abrasion damage over a few weeks than a whole summer of use.

Spring Checks

Before the first use of the season, go over the set methodically. Look for loose or broken strands, check the frame joints and tighten any bolts that have worked loose, inspect the feet, and clean thoroughly before cushions go back on. Ten minutes of inspection in April prevents the sort of failure that appears halfway through July.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I pressure wash wicker furniture?

No. The jet drives water into the weave and can break strands or lift the resin coating. Use warm soapy water with a soft brush and rinse gently with a hose on a low setting.

Does synthetic wicker need sealing or oiling?

No. Sealers and oils are for natural fibres such as rattan, willow and cane. Synthetic resin wicker only needs cleaning, shade from prolonged sun and dry storage.

Can wicker furniture stay outside all winter in the UK?

Synthetic wicker on an aluminium frame can, provided it is dry, raised off the ground and under a breathable vented cover. Natural wicker should be brought inside, ideally into an unheated shed or garage rather than a warm room.

How often should I clean outdoor wicker?

Twice a year suits most gardens: once in spring and once before winter storage. Add a mid summer clean if the set sits under trees where sap and droppings collect in the weave.

How do I fix a loose wicker strand?

Deal with it promptly. Soften a natural fibre strand with a little water so it becomes pliable, then weave the loose end back into the pattern and secure it. On synthetic wicker, tuck the strand back and, if needed, secure it with a small amount of exterior adhesive.