How Do You Make Bed Headboard?

The Method in Outline

To make a bed headboard, cut a board to the width of your bed and the height you want, glue a layer of foam to the front face, wrap it in a layer of wadding, then stretch fabric over the whole panel and staple it to the back. Fix the finished panel to the wall with a French cleat, or bolt it to the bed base using timber struts. A straightforward upholstered headboard takes an afternoon and needs a saw, a staple gun, scissors and a drill.

The appeal of making your own is control. You choose the exact height, the exact width and the fabric, which is difficult to achieve when buying ready made, particularly for non standard beds or awkward wall shapes.

Working Out Size

Start with the width. Match the mattress width for a headboard that sits neatly within the bed’s footprint: 90cm for a single, 120cm for a small double, 135cm for a double, 150cm for a king and 180cm for a super king. Add 5cm to 10cm either side if you want it to overhang slightly, which reads as more generous and hides any gap where pillows shift.

Height is a judgement call. Measure from the top of your mattress upwards. A headboard finishing 50cm to 60cm above the mattress suits most rooms. Go to 80cm or beyond for a statement panel, but only where the ceiling can carry it: a tall headboard in a low ceilinged loft room closes the space in.

Then consider whether it will sit behind the bed on the wall or attach to the base. Wall mounted panels can extend below the mattress line and be hidden, which gives a clean floating look. Base mounted headboards need struts that align with the bolt inserts on your divan or frame.

Materials You Will Need

For the panel, 12mm to 18mm plywood or MDF works well. Plywood is stronger and holds screws better, which matters for wall fixing. MDF is smoother and cheaper but heavier and less tolerant of damp. Many timber merchants will cut a sheet to size for you, which saves the trickiest part of the job.

For padding, use upholstery foam between 2.5cm and 5cm thick. Thinner foam gives a flat contemporary panel, thicker gives a softer look and is more comfortable to lean against. Over the foam, a layer of polyester wadding softens the edges and stops the foam texture showing through the fabric.

For fabric, allow the panel dimensions plus at least 15cm on every side for wrapping. Choose something hard wearing: a woven upholstery fabric, a heavy linen blend or a velvet with a decent rub count. Avoid thin dress fabrics, which will not survive being stretched or leaned on. If you want to match an existing bed, look at the fabric used across our modern fabric beds UK sale range for an idea of the weight and weave that stands up to daily use.

You will also need spray adhesive for the foam, a staple gun with 8mm to 10mm staples, and either French cleat timber or headboard struts and bolts for fixing.

Building the Panel Step by Step

Cut the board to size, or have it cut. Sand the edges so there are no splinters that could work through the fabric.

Lay the foam on a flat surface and place the board on top as a template. Cut the foam with a long bladed knife or an electric carving knife, which gives a much cleaner edge than scissors. Cut it flush with the board rather than oversized.

Apply spray adhesive to the board and the back of the foam, wait until tacky, then press the two together. Work from the centre outwards to avoid trapping air.

Lay the wadding over the foam, allowing it to wrap around the edges and onto the back by about 5cm. Staple it to the back of the board, pulling gently so it is smooth but not compressed.

Now the fabric. Lay it face down on a clean floor, place the padded panel foam side down on top, and check the pattern is straight before you start stapling. Begin at the centre of the top edge, put in one staple, then move to the centre of the bottom edge and pull the fabric taut before stapling there. Repeat at the centre of each side. Working from centres outwards on opposite sides keeps the tension even and prevents diagonal creases.

Work along each edge in turn, alternating sides, spacing staples around 4cm apart. At the corners, fold the excess into a neat pleat rather than cutting it away, tuck it under and staple. Trim surplus fabric on the back once everything is secure.

Adding Detail

Buttons give a classic finish. Mark a grid on the back of the board before you upholster, drill a small hole at each point, then pull a covered button through with upholstery twine and a long needle, securing on the back. Space the grid evenly and check the layout with masking tape on the front before committing to holes.

Channel panelling is achieved by fixing vertical timber battens to the board before the foam goes on, so the foam dips between them. It gives a fluted effect that suits contemporary rooms.

Piping around the edge sharpens the outline. It is fitted by stapling the piping cord in its fabric casing around the perimeter before the main fabric is wrapped, though it adds a level of difficulty.

A simpler alternative to upholstery entirely is a timber slatted headboard: battens fixed horizontally to two vertical rails, sanded and oiled. It suits rooms where the scheme leans towards wood, and it pairs naturally with the finishes in our modern wooden beds UK collection.

Fixing It in Place

A French cleat is the most secure wall fixing. Cut a length of timber at 45 degrees down its length, screw one half to the wall with the slope facing up and out, and screw the matching half to the back of the headboard with the slope facing down and in. The panel then hooks over the wall cleat and cannot lift off.

Fix into masonry with appropriate plugs and screws. On a stud wall, find the studs and fix into them rather than relying on plasterboard anchors alone for a heavy panel. Check for cables and pipes before drilling.

Set the height so the bottom of the headboard sits a few centimetres below the top of the mattress. That prevents a visible gap and stops pillows disappearing behind.

For a base mounted headboard, fix two timber struts to the back of the panel, positioned to align with the bolt inserts on your divan base. Bolt through the struts into the inserts, starting both bolts by hand before tightening either so the panel stays square.

Finishing the Room Around It

A new headboard changes the balance of a bedroom, so look at what sits either side of it. Bedside cabinets in a similar tone tie the arrangement together, and our modern bedside cabinets UK sale range offers widths to suit both generous and tight bedsides.

Lighting matters with a tall headboard, because a table lamp can end up shadowed by the panel. Wall lights fixed above the headboard line, or slim reading lights on adjustable arms, work better. Browse our modern wall lights UK sale selection for options that mount cleanly either side.

If the headboard is your project but the bed itself is tired, it may be worth pairing your work with a new base. The full range at Furniture in Fashion includes plain bases and divans that accept a bolt on headboard, which gives you a clean foundation for a panel you have made yourself.

Frequently Asked Questions

What board should I use for a headboard?

Plywood at 12mm to 18mm is the better choice because it holds screws well and is lighter than MDF. MDF gives a smoother surface but is heavier and less tolerant of damp.

How high should a headboard be?

Around 50cm to 60cm above the mattress suits most rooms. Taller panels make a stronger statement but need enough ceiling height, so they suit high ceilinged rooms rather than lofts.

How much fabric do I need?

The panel dimensions plus at least 15cm on every side for wrapping to the back. Buy a little extra if the fabric has a pattern that needs aligning.

Can I attach a homemade headboard to a divan base?

Yes. Fix two timber struts to the back of the panel so they line up with the bolt inserts at the head of the divan, then bolt through, tightening both fixings alternately.

Should the headboard be wider than the bed?

Matching the mattress width looks neat and tidy. Adding 5cm to 10cm each side gives a more generous appearance and covers any gap where pillows move about.