How Do You Make a Wardrobe with Drawers?

To make a wardrobe with drawers, build the carcass first, then create a separate drawer bank inside it using a solid horizontal divider, fit runners level on both sides, and hang the fronts last so they line up with the doors. The drawers work best in the lower third of the wardrobe, below the hanging rail, where short garments would otherwise leave dead space.

That is the short answer. The detail that decides whether the drawers glide or stick is accuracy: square openings, runners at identical heights and consistent gaps. Everything below is aimed at getting those three things right, whether you are building from timber sheets or upgrading a wardrobe you already own.

Plan the internal layout before you cut anything

Measure what you actually store. Hanging shirts and jackets need roughly 100cm of drop, dresses and long coats closer to 150cm. Subtract the drop you need from the internal height of the carcass and whatever remains is your drawer zone.

A common split in a 200cm tall wardrobe is a 110cm hanging section with a 70cm drawer bank beneath and a shelf above. That gives you three deep drawers of around 20cm each, allowing for runner clearance and the divider thickness. If you fold rather than hang most items, flip the proportions and run four shallower drawers with a shorter rail above.

Sketch the elevation on paper with real numbers. It takes ten minutes and prevents the most common error, which is discovering the top drawer fouls the hanging rail once the clothes are in.

Materials that behave well

For the carcass, 18mm birch plywood or good quality MDF is the sensible choice. Both stay flat and hold screws reliably. Plywood takes a clear finish nicely if you like visible edges. MDF paints beautifully but needs edge sealing before topcoat.

Drawer boxes can be lighter. 12mm to 15mm sides with a 6mm base grooved in keeps weight down, which matters because runners have load limits. Solid timber drawer sides look excellent but must be properly dry, otherwise they will move and bind after a season.

Buy the runners before you cut the drawer boxes. Every brand specifies a precise carcass to drawer width clearance, usually 12.5mm per side for side mounted runners and a different figure for undermount. Working to the runner specification rather than guessing is the single biggest factor in smooth operation.

Building the carcass

Cut the two sides, the top, the bottom and the fixed divider that separates hanging from drawers. Check the diagonals as you assemble: if both measure the same, the box is square. Clamp before screwing, and use a scrap block to keep panels flush at the joints.

Fit a back panel of 6mm ply or hardboard into a rebate or simply pin it to the rear edges. The back is what holds the carcass square permanently, so do not skip it. A wardrobe without a back will rack over time and the drawers will start catching on one side.

Level the unit on the floor before you install any runners. Bedroom floors are rarely flat, particularly in older properties, and adjustable feet make life much easier later. Runners fitted to a twisted carcass will never run true no matter how carefully you set them.

Fitting the drawer runners

Mark the runner positions on a story stick, which is simply a length of timber with your drawer heights marked once. Transfer those marks to both inner sides of the carcass. Using one stick rather than a tape twice removes the small errors that add up.

Set each runner against the mark, keep the front end flush with the front edge of the carcass, and fix through the slotted holes first so you can adjust before committing. Test with the empty drawer box, check the movement, then add the remaining screws.

Soft close runners are worth the extra outlay in a bedroom. They stop the drawer slamming, which protects the fronts and keeps folded clothes tidy. Full extension runners let you see the back of the drawer, which is the difference between using the whole space and forgetting what lives at the rear.

Making the drawer boxes

Butt joints with glue and screws are perfectly strong for clothing loads. Dowels or dominoes are neater if you have the tools. Groove the base into all four sides for the strongest result, or screw a base underneath for speed.

Assemble on a flat surface and check the diagonals again. A drawer box that is out of square will run stiffly even on good runners. Sand the top edges lightly so nothing snags on fabric.

Hanging the fronts and setting the gaps

Fit the fronts after the boxes run smoothly. Use double sided tape to position a front, open the drawer, then screw through from inside the box. Adjust with slotted holes or adjustable front fixings until the gaps are even.

Aim for a consistent 3mm gap around each front. Cut spacers from offcuts and use them rather than judging by eye. Handles go on last, marked from a drilling template so every one sits at the same height. Recessed pulls suit narrow rooms because nothing protrudes into the walkway.

Upgrading an existing wardrobe instead

You do not always need to start from scratch. Many wardrobes have a large empty base that suits a retrofitted drawer bank. Measure the internal opening, build a small three sided box to sit inside it, then fit runners to that box rather than to the wardrobe walls. This gives you square, parallel sides even if the original carcass is slightly out.

If joinery is not something you want to take on, a simpler route is to pair a wardrobe with separate drawer storage. A matching modern chest of drawers UK sale alongside gives you the same folding capacity without any cutting, and it is easy to reconfigure when the room changes. Our modern wardrobes UK sale range includes several models that already combine hanging space with built in drawers, which is the shortest path to the result.

Finishing well

Fill and sand any visible fixings, then seal the edges of MDF with a thinned coat before painting. Two thin coats always beat one thick one. Inside the wardrobe, a clear water based finish keeps the interior light and easy to wipe, and it will not leave a lingering smell on clothes the way some oil based products can.

Line drawer bases with a thin felt or paper if you store knitwear, and leave a little breathing room rather than packing to the top. Clothes stay fresher and drawers close properly.

Safety and stability

Once loaded with folded clothing, a drawer bank shifts the weight of the wardrobe forward when open. Secure the unit to the wall with a bracket at high level, or fit an anti tip strap. Keep the heaviest items in the lowest drawer to lower the centre of gravity. If the room has a slightly sloping floor, shim under the front feet so drawers do not creep open on their own.

For a coordinated finish, matching the wardrobe to the rest of the room helps the joinery look intentional rather than added on. Browsing a full modern bedroom furniture sets UK selection is a quick way to settle on a finish and handle style before you commit to paint or veneer. If you enjoy this kind of project, Furniture in Fashion also has ready made options worth comparing against the cost of materials.

Tools that genuinely change the result

You can build a wardrobe with drawers using very few tools, but three make a visible difference to accuracy. The first is a long spirit level, ideally 1200mm, because a short level will happily tell you a runner is flat when it is running slightly downhill over the full depth. The second is a clamped straight edge or a track guide for cutting sheet material, which gives you square edges without relying on freehand control. The third is a decent square, used constantly rather than once at the start.

Beyond that, a countersink bit stops screw heads standing proud and fouling drawer boxes, and a pair of long clamps holds panels together while you drill so nothing creeps out of alignment. If you are cutting several identical drawer parts, set up a simple stop block so every piece comes off exactly the same length. Consistency in the parts is what produces consistent gaps in the finished fronts.

Frequently Asked Questions

How deep should wardrobe drawers be?

Around 45cm to 50cm suits a standard 60cm deep wardrobe once runners and the door thickness are allowed for. Deeper than that and the drawer becomes heavy and hard to search.

Should drawers go at the top or bottom of a wardrobe?

The bottom, in almost every case. Hanging garments need the upper height, and low drawers keep heavy folded items near the floor for stability.

What runners work best for wardrobe drawers?

Full extension soft close runners rated above your expected load. Full extension lets you reach the back of the drawer, and soft close protects the fronts from slamming.

Can I add drawers to a wardrobe I already own?

Yes. Build a separate three sided drawer box that fits inside the existing opening and mount the runners to that, which gives you square parallel sides even if the original carcass has moved.

What gap should I leave around drawer fronts?

A consistent 3mm all round looks right and allows for seasonal movement. Use cut spacers rather than judging by eye.