How Do You Adjust Wardrobe Doors That Are Uneven?

Where to Begin

Uneven wardrobe doors are almost always adjusted at the hinges, using the three screws on a concealed European hinge: the side screw moves the door left and right, the depth screw moves it closer to or further from the carcass, and the mounting plate screw raises or lowers it. Adjust side to side first, then depth, then height, working with the door closed so you can watch the gaps change. If the gaps still refuse to even out, the problem is the carcass rather than the doors, and the unit needs levelling first.

This is a ten minute job with a single screwdriver in most cases. What makes it feel difficult is adjusting in the wrong order and chasing the fault from one side of the unit to the other.

Diagnose Before You Touch a Screw

Close the doors and look at the reveals, meaning the gaps around and between them. You are looking for one of four patterns.

A tapered gap between two doors, wider at the top than the bottom, means one door is tilted. Adjust the side screws on that door’s hinges.

An even gap that is simply too wide or too narrow means the doors need moving sideways as a pair.

A door standing proud of its neighbour means a depth adjustment.

Both doors dropping at the same side, with the gap tapering the same way on both, points at the carcass being out of level rather than the hinges.

Note what you see before adjusting. It is easy to lose track once you start turning screws.

Check the Unit Is Level First

This step is skipped constantly and it wastes the most time. A wardrobe standing on an uneven floor twists slightly, and no amount of hinge adjustment will produce even gaps on a twisted carcass.

Put a spirit level on the top of the unit, then on the front edge of the base. Check across the width and front to back. British floors, particularly in older houses and in rooms with newer floating floors, are rarely flat.

Pack under the low corners with hardwood shims or the adjustable feet if the unit has them. Do it with the doors open so the weight distribution is closer to neutral, then close them and look again. In many cases the doors correct themselves entirely at this point.

While you are there, check the back panel is still fully fixed. A back panel that has pulled loose at one corner allows the whole carcass to lozenge out of square, and that shows up in the door gaps immediately. This is a common issue with units that have been moved between homes, which is worth remembering when you are choosing between models across a range of modern wardrobes UK sale collections.

Understanding the Three Hinge Adjustments

Almost every modern wardrobe uses a concealed hinge with a cup in the door and a mounting plate on the side panel. Three separate movements are available.

Side to side, sometimes called the lateral adjustment, is usually the screw nearest the door, set inside the hinge arm. A quarter turn moves the door edge roughly half a millimetre. Turning it changes the reveal between the two doors and corrects a tilt.

Depth, or the in and out adjustment, is the rear screw on the hinge arm where it meets the plate. This brings the door closer to the carcass or pushes it away, which is what you need when one door sits proud of its neighbour.

Height is set at the mounting plate. Loosen the two plate screws slightly, slide the whole plate up or down within its slots, then retighten. On some hinges there is a dedicated cam for this instead.

Work with a screwdriver rather than a drill driver. The screws are small and the adjustment range is measured in fractions of a turn.

The Correct Order of Adjustment

Follow this sequence and the job goes quickly.

First, set the height. Get both doors level with the top of the carcass, adjusting at the mounting plates. Aim for an equal gap along the top edge of each door.

Second, set the side to side. Work on the tilted door and use the top and bottom hinges in opposition: move the top hinge one way and the bottom hinge the other to rotate the door. This is what closes a tapered central gap.

Third, set the depth. Sight along the doors from the side and bring them into the same plane. Adjust both hinges on a door equally unless the door is twisted.

Recheck after each stage. Adjusting one door changes what the gap next to it looks like, which is why sequence matters.

Aim for the Right Gap

A consistent gap of 2mm to 3mm between doors looks intentional and allows for seasonal movement. Less than 2mm and the doors will rub in humid weather. More than 4mm and the unit begins to look poorly made.

Use a piece of card or an offcut of 3mm board as a gauge rather than judging by eye. Slide it down the gap: it should pass evenly along the full height. Where it binds, you still have a taper.

Check the reveals at the top and outer edges too. Doors can be perfectly matched to each other while both sit crooked in the carcass.

Problems Hinges Cannot Fix

Some faults are not adjustments.

A sagging hanging rail bows the side panels outward at mid height, which pushes the door edges apart in the middle. Fitting a centre support to the rail cures the doors.

A stripped hinge screw hole in chipboard will let the plate move under load however tightly you do it up. Remove the screw, glue in a hardwood plug or a few cocktail sticks with wood glue, let it set, then redrill a pilot hole.

A broken hinge arm or a bent cup cannot be adjusted back. Replace the hinge, matching the cup diameter, usually 35mm, and the overlay type.

Doors that have swollen at the bottom edge because of damp have a moisture problem, not an alignment problem, and the cause needs dealing with before anything else.

Where a unit is genuinely worn out, replacement is more sensible than continued repair, and there is a broad selection across the wider range at Furniture in Fashion for bedrooms of every size.

Sliding Doors Are a Different Job

Sliding doors do not have hinges. They run on wheels or rollers, usually with an adjustment screw at the base of each door that raises or lowers that side.

Turn the screw on the low side to lift the door until the leading edge sits parallel with the frame. Half a turn goes a long way. Clean the bottom track before you adjust anything, because grit in the channel lifts a door and mimics a misalignment.

Check the anti jump blocks at the top are still in place. If a sliding door has come off its line completely, these are often the reason. Guidance on choosing between styles is set out in our selection of sliding wardrobes UK sale units, which explains the different running systems in use.

Keeping Doors Aligned Long Term

Alignment drifts for predictable reasons: overloading, seasonal humidity and a floor that moves. A quick annual check takes minutes.

Look at the gaps in autumn when the heating comes on and again in spring. Retighten any hinge screws that feel loose. Keep the heaviest garments toward the ends of a rail rather than the centre.

Avoid hanging bags or dressing gowns on the door edge. The leverage on a door hook is considerable and it is one of the most common causes of a dropped door. If you need somewhere for everyday items, a hook or a stand keeps the load off the hinges, and there are practical options among our modern valet stands UK pieces.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which hinge screw moves the door sideways?

The screw closest to the door, set in the hinge arm. A quarter turn shifts the door edge roughly half a millimetre, so make small adjustments and check the gap each time.

Why do my wardrobe doors keep going out of alignment?

Usually because the unit is not sitting level, the back panel has loosened, or something heavy is hanging on a door. Level the unit, refix the back and keep loads off the doors.

What gap should there be between wardrobe doors?

Between 2mm and 3mm, consistent along the full height. Tighter than that and the doors rub in damp weather. Wider than 4mm and the unit looks ill fitting.

Can I adjust doors without removing anything from the wardrobe?

Usually yes, though the adjustment will hold better if you remove heavy items first so the carcass is not under load while you work.

How do I fix a hinge screw that keeps turning?

The hole has stripped. Glue a hardwood plug or a couple of cocktail sticks into it, let the glue cure fully, then drill a fresh pilot hole and refit the screw.