To measure up for an oak shelving unit, record the width, height and depth of the space at several points, note any skirting boards, sockets, radiators and switches, allow clearance for doors and walkways, and then measure every doorway, hallway and staircase the unit will travel through. Compare those figures with the product dimensions, leaving a little room at each side and above, and you will know whether the unit will fit.<\/p>\n
Our modern oak shelving units UK<\/a> range lists full dimensions for each design, so once you have your measurements you can compare them directly. The steps below explain exactly what to measure and why.<\/p>\n A retractable steel tape measure, a notepad and pencil, and a phone camera are enough for most rooms. A spirit level helps check whether floors and walls are true. Painter’s tape is useful for marking the outline of a unit on the floor and wall so you can see how it will look.<\/p>\n Measure in centimetres, since most furniture dimensions are listed this way. Write each measurement down immediately and label it clearly.<\/p>\n Measure the width of the wall or alcove at three heights: near the floor, at waist height and near the top of where the unit will reach. Walls in many British homes, particularly older ones, are not completely straight, and an alcove can be several centimetres narrower at one height than another. Use the smallest figure.<\/p>\n Allow a clearance of at least one to two centimetres on each side for a freestanding unit. This makes positioning easier and avoids scraping the walls. In an alcove, a slightly larger gap can look deliberate and lets air circulate.<\/p>\n Measure from the floor to the ceiling at the front and back of the space. If there is coving, cornicing or a picture rail, measure to the underside of it. In loft rooms or under stairs, measure the height at the point where the slope begins and at the deepest point.<\/p>\n Leave a gap of at least five centimetres between the top of the unit and the ceiling. A tall unit needs room to be tilted upright during assembly, and a gap above also looks more comfortable than a unit pressed against the ceiling.<\/p>\n When standing a tall unit up, it pivots on its bottom edge, so the diagonal of the unit needs to fit under the ceiling. If your ceiling is close to the unit’s height, check that the diagonal measurement allows it to be raised.<\/p>\n Measure how far the unit can come forward from the wall without blocking movement. In an alcove, this is the depth of the recess. On a flat wall, it depends on what is in front of the unit.<\/p>\n Shelf depth also affects what you can store. Around 25 to 30cm suits most paperbacks and hardbacks. Around 35 to 40cm suits larger art books, records and storage baskets. Shallower shelves of 20cm work for display and narrow hallways.<\/p>\n Skirting boards push a unit forward from the wall. Measure their height and depth. Many shelving units have a cut out at the back to clear skirting, but solid backed units will sit at the skirting’s depth.<\/p>\n Mark the position of sockets, light switches, thermostats and radiators. A unit placed over a socket will make it difficult to use, and placing oak in front of a radiator is not recommended because constant heat can cause timber to dry and move. Leave a reasonable gap between a radiator and any wooden furniture.<\/p>\n Check that doors, including cupboard doors and windows, can open fully with the unit in place. Allow at least 70 to 80cm of clear walkway in front of the unit in a main room, and more if it sits on a route people use often.<\/p>\n Consider the space you need to reach the shelves comfortably. You will want room to stand in front of the unit and take items from the lower shelves without bumping into a sofa or table behind you.<\/p>\n This is the step people most often forget. Measure the width and height of your front door, any internal doors, the hallway and the staircase. Check the tightest turn, especially on stairs with a landing or a quarter turn.<\/p>\n Oak units that arrive assembled need a clear path. If any part of the route is too narrow, choose a unit that arrives flat packed or in sections. Note the height of any low beams or light fittings along the way.<\/p>\n Alcoves beside chimney breasts in period homes are often slightly uneven. Measure the width at the front and the back of the alcove, as well as at different heights. If the back is wider than the front, the unit must fit through the front opening. Measure the depth at both sides, since one side may be deeper than the other.<\/p>\n A freestanding unit with a small gap on each side will usually look neater than one that is forced tight against uneven walls.<\/p>\n A unit can fit a space and still look wrong. As a general guide, a unit filling around two thirds of a wall’s width looks balanced, while one filling the whole wall reads as a built in feature. In an alcove, a unit that fills most of the width and stops a little short of the ceiling looks considered.<\/p>\n Think about the furniture around it. A tall oak unit beside a low sofa creates contrast, while a low unit under a window keeps the view open. If you are pairing shelving with other oak furniture, matching the tone helps. Our living room furniture UK sale<\/a> range includes pieces that coordinate with oak shelving.<\/p>\n Shelf spacing determines what you can store. For paperbacks, around 22 to 25cm between shelves works well. For hardbacks, allow 28 to 32cm. For tall art books and records, 35cm or more. For display items, vary the spacing to suit the objects.<\/p>\n If you prefer shelves fixed at regular heights, a sturdy design from our oak and wooden bookcases UK<\/a> collection offers consistent spacing for book collections. For lower storage that doubles as a surface, our modern wooden sideboards UK<\/a> range pairs well with open shelving above.<\/p>\n For a wider reference on standard dimensions, our guide to UK display furniture heights, depths and shelf spacing<\/a> covers typical figures in more detail.<\/p>\n Once you have a unit in mind, mark its outline on the floor and wall with painter’s tape. Leave it in place for a day or two and walk around it. This simple step shows you how much space the unit will take and whether it blocks light or movement.<\/p>\nWhat You Will Need<\/h3>\n
Step One: Measure the Width<\/h3>\n
Step Two: Measure the Height<\/h3>\n
Step Three: Measure the Depth<\/h3>\n
Step Four: Note Skirting, Sockets and Radiators<\/h3>\n
Step Five: Allow for Clearance<\/h3>\n
Step Six: Measure the Route Into the Room<\/h3>\n
Measuring an Alcove That Is Not Square<\/h3>\n
Checking Proportion, Not Just Fit<\/h3>\n
Planning Shelf Spacing<\/h3>\n
Visualising Before You Choose<\/h3>\n