To measure up for a vitrine cabinet, record five things: the width of the space at three heights, the usable height from floor to ceiling or to the lowest obstruction, the depth available after skirting boards and sockets, the clearance needed for doors to open and people to pass, and the route the cabinet must travel to reach the room. Add the size of your tallest display object and you have everything you need to choose with confidence.<\/p>\n
A vitrine is a cabinet glazed on most or all sides, designed so the contents can be seen from several angles. Because so much of it is glass, it tends to look lighter than it is, and that can make it easy to underestimate how much space it takes. Our glass vitrine display cabinets UK<\/a> range includes tall, slim and wide designs, and the steps below will help you find the right one.<\/p>\n Measure in centimetres or millimetres throughout. Mixing units is one of the most common causes of mistakes.<\/p>\n Measure the width of the space where the vitrine will stand. If it is an alcove, measure from wall to wall at three heights: near the floor, at waist height and near the top of where the cabinet will reach. Older walls are rarely completely straight, and the narrowest of the three measurements is the one that counts.<\/p>\n If the cabinet will stand against an open wall, measure the full wall length and note the position of doors, windows, radiators and light switches. You will want the cabinet clear of all of them.<\/p>\n In an alcove, allow a small gap either side so the cabinet can be positioned without scraping the walls. A couple of centimetres each side is usually enough to make it easier to slide into place.<\/p>\n Measure from the floor to the ceiling, then look for anything lower. Coving, picture rails, sloping ceilings, beams, wall lights and curtain poles can all reduce the usable height. The lowest point above the cabinet’s footprint is your true limit.<\/p>\n Leave some space above the cabinet. A vitrine that almost touches the ceiling can look cramped and makes it difficult to tilt into position during assembly, since tall cabinets are often stood upright from lying down. As a general guide, allow at least a hand span between the top of the cabinet and the ceiling.<\/p>\n Depth is often where measurements go wrong. Measure from the wall outwards, but remember that skirting boards push the cabinet forward. Measure the skirting depth and add it to the cabinet depth when checking how far it will project into the room.<\/p>\n Check for plug sockets, radiator pipes and other fixtures on the wall behind. If the vitrine has integrated lighting, you will need a socket nearby, and the plug may sit behind the cabinet. Make sure there is enough space for it without forcing the cabinet away from the wall.<\/p>\n Browsing our living room furniture UK<\/a> collection can help you picture how the cabinet’s depth sits alongside sofas, tables and other pieces in the room. If the available depth turns out to be very shallow, our modern display stands and units UK<\/a> include slimmer open designs that may suit the space better.<\/p>\n Vitrines have hinged or sliding doors. Hinged doors need space to swing open, usually equal to the width of the door itself. If the cabinet has two doors, each needs its own clearance. Check that an open door will not hit a sofa arm, a radiator or a light switch.<\/p>\n Also check side opening doors on corner vitrines or cabinets with glazed side panels that open. If space in front is tight, sliding doors may be a better fit.<\/p>\n Measure the clear space in front of the cabinet once it is in position. A comfortable walkway for one person is generally around 90 centimetres. If the cabinet sits on a route through the room, such as between the door and the sofa, consider more.<\/p>\n Use masking tape on the floor to mark the cabinet’s footprint. Walk around it for a day. This simple test is the most reliable way to see whether the cabinet will feel comfortable in daily use.<\/p>\n A cabinet that fits the room but not the hallway is a frustrating discovery. Measure every point the cabinet must pass on its way in:<\/p>\n Many vitrines are delivered flat packed or in sections, which makes access easier. Check whether yours arrives assembled, and if so, compare the packed dimensions with the narrowest point of the route. Remember that a tall box needs to be tilted to get round corners, which requires more space than its width alone.<\/p>\n The cabinet needs to suit its contents as well as the room. Measure your tallest object, your widest object and anything particularly deep. These will tell you the shelf spacing and shelf depth you need.<\/p>\n Our article on UK display cabinet heights, depths and shelf spacing<\/a> gives typical figures to compare with your items. If you plan to display heavier pieces, our guide to glass shelf load limits for UK display cabinets<\/a> explains what different shelves can safely carry.<\/p>\n Vitrines are designed to be seen from more than one side, so think about which faces will be visible. A cabinet placed in a corner shows two sides. One placed against a wall shows the front and sides. A freestanding vitrine in the middle of a room shows everything, so it needs to look tidy from every angle.<\/p>\n Note where daylight falls. Strong sun through a nearby window can create glare on the glass and fade delicate items. A position at right angles to the window usually gives good natural light without reflections.<\/p>\n Sometimes measuring reveals that a full height vitrine is not the right fit. A low space under a window or a narrow gap beside a door might suit open shelving or a compact glazed cabinet better, and there is no harm in revisiting the plan once the numbers are in front of you.<\/p>\n If you find yourself between two sizes, the smaller option is usually the safer choice. A cabinet with a little space around it looks considered, whereas one squeezed into a gap looks forced.<\/p>\n Write everything down clearly, with a quick sketch of the wall showing doors, windows, sockets and radiators. Take a photograph of the space from the doorway and from your main seat. Having these to hand makes it much easier to compare cabinets and check product dimensions.<\/p>\n Measuring for a vitrine takes a little time, but it removes almost all of the uncertainty. Width at three heights, true usable height, depth after skirting, door swing, walkway and delivery route: get those right and you can focus on the enjoyable part, choosing a cabinet you love and deciding what to put in it.<\/p>\nWhat You Will Need<\/h3>\n
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Step One: Measure the Width<\/h3>\n
Step Two: Measure the Height<\/h3>\n
Step Three: Measure the Depth<\/h3>\n
Step Four: Allow for Door Swing<\/h3>\n
Step Five: Check the Walkway<\/h3>\n
Step Six: Measure the Delivery Route<\/h3>\n
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Step Seven: Measure What You Will Display<\/h3>\n
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Step Eight: Consider Light and Position<\/h3>\n
Choosing Between a Vitrine and Open Display<\/h3>\n
Recording Your Measurements<\/h3>\n
Measure Once, Choose Well<\/h3>\n