To make seat cushions for dining chairs, cut a paper template of the seat, cut foam to that shape, cut two fabric panels adding a seam allowance, sew them together with a boxing strip around the edge if you want a defined depth, insert the foam and close the opening, then add ties at the back corners to hold the cushion in place. A simple tie on cushion for a wooden chair takes around an hour once the template is made, and the same template can be reused for the rest of the set.<\/p>\n
Seat cushions are the quickest way to make hard chairs comfortable without altering them. They also let you introduce colour and texture to a dining room that is otherwise dominated by timber and hard surfaces, and they can be removed and washed, which fixed upholstery cannot.<\/p>\n
There are three constructions worth considering and they suit different chairs.<\/p>\n
A flat pad cushion is two panels of fabric sewn together with padding between them. It is the simplest to make, sits low on the seat and suits chairs with a shallow rebate or a slatted seat. It gives around two to three centimetres of comfort.<\/p>\n
A boxed cushion has a strip of fabric, called a boxing or gusset, running around the perimeter between the top and bottom panels. This gives the cushion a defined vertical edge and a substantial appearance. It is the right choice for anything over four centimetres thick.<\/p>\n
A tufted cushion is a flat pad with stitching or buttons pulled through at intervals to hold the padding in place. It stops the filling from migrating and gives a traditional look, though the depressions do collect crumbs.<\/p>\n
For most dining chairs, a boxed cushion of four to five centimetres looks the most considered and provides genuine comfort. A flat pad is fine for chairs used occasionally.<\/p>\n
Dining seats are rarely perfect squares. Most are wider at the front than the back, and many have curved front corners or cut outs where the back uprights meet the seat.<\/p>\n
Lay a sheet of paper on the seat and press it down against the edges. Crease along the perimeter, then cut along the crease. Place it back on the chair and check the fit, trimming where needed.<\/p>\n
Mark where the back uprights are, since the cushion needs notches or a shaped rear edge to sit flush against them.<\/p>\n
Mark the top of the template and which chair it came from. If your chairs differ even slightly, test the finished cushion on each before cutting the rest.<\/p>\n
Make the template one to two millimetres smaller than the seat all round. A cushion cut to the exact seat size will overhang once the fabric adds thickness at the edges.<\/p>\n
Foam gives the most reliable result. A medium firm polyurethane foam in the low thirties of kilograms per cubic metre density holds its shape through daily use. Four to five centimetres is a comfortable thickness for a dining chair.<\/p>\n
Wadding wrapped around the foam softens the edges and stops the fabric from sitting hard against the foam corner. It also fills the cover more completely, which prevents the slightly deflated look that foam alone can have.<\/p>\n
Polyester fibre filling is an alternative for flat pads. It is soft and inexpensive but compresses quickly and needs tufting to stop it from shifting to the edges.<\/p>\n
Feather pads give a soft luxurious feel but flatten during use and need plumping. They are better suited to occasional chairs than to everyday dining seats.<\/p>\n
For chairs used daily, foam with a wadding wrap is the practical choice. For a decorative cushion on a chair that is rarely sat on, fibre filling is adequate.<\/p>\n
Cushions take direct wear so the fabric needs some substance. Cotton drill, canvas, upholstery weight cotton and linen blends all work well and are washable.<\/p>\n
Avoid lightweight dressmaking cottons, which will thin at the front edge within a year.<\/p>\n
Consider whether the cushion cover will be removable. If you want to wash it, a zip or an envelope opening is essential and the fabric must be pre washed to avoid shrinkage on the first laundry.<\/p>\n
Colour choice follows the same logic as upholstery. Mid tones with a subtle texture hide marks far better than pale plains or solid darks.<\/p>\n
Think about the surrounding room. Cushions are a small area of fabric doing a lot of visual work, so they can afford to be more assertive than a full upholstered chair would be. Against a plain oak table and neutral walls, a strong colour reads as deliberate. Against a busy room, keep them quiet. If the chairs sit near a living area, checking the tone against your modern rugs UK sale<\/a> and soft furnishings avoids a clash.<\/p>\n For a boxed cushion you need a top panel, a bottom panel and a boxing strip.<\/p>\n Cut the top and bottom panels using the template with one and a half centimetres of seam allowance added all round.<\/p>\n Measure the perimeter of the template. The boxing strip needs to be that length plus seam allowances at the join, and its width should equal the foam thickness plus one and a half centimetres on each edge.<\/p>\n Cut the boxing strip in two parts if you are inserting a zip: a shorter front and side section, and a rear section split lengthways for the zip.<\/p>\n For a flat pad, cut just two panels with seam allowance.<\/p>\n Cut tie strips at the same time. Each cushion needs two ties, each around forty centimetres long and eight centimetres wide before folding.<\/p>\n Mark notches at the centre of the front, back and both sides on all pieces. These notches are what keep the boxing aligned when you sew a long curved seam.<\/p>\n Make the ties first. Fold each strip in half lengthways right sides together, sew along the long edge and one short end, turn right side out and press. Turning is easier with a knitting needle or a safety pin.<\/p>\n If using a zip, insert it into the rear boxing section now. Sew the split strip together along its length with a long basting stitch, press the seam open, position the zip over the seam, stitch it in place and then remove the basting.<\/p>\n Join the boxing sections into a continuous loop.<\/p>\n Pin the boxing to the top panel, right sides together, matching notch to notch. Clip into the boxing seam allowance around any curves so it can bend without pulling.<\/p>\n Position the ties at the two rear corners, sandwiched between the boxing and the panel so they are caught in the seam and point inwards. This is easy to forget and awkward to add later.<\/p>\n Sew all the way round.<\/p>\n Pin and sew the bottom panel to the other edge of the boxing in the same way, matching notches.<\/p>\n If you have not used a zip, leave a gap of around twenty five centimetres along the back edge for inserting the foam.<\/p>\n Trim the seam allowances, clip the corners and turn right side out through the opening or the zip.<\/p>\n Wrap the foam in wadding, either loose or held with a light spray adhesive.<\/p>\n A wrapped foam pad is difficult to push through a small opening. The professional trick is to slip the wrapped foam into a plastic bag or wrap it in a smooth plastic sheet, feed it into the cover, then pull the plastic out. The plastic lets the wadding slide instead of catching.<\/p>\n Work the foam into the corners with your fingers so the cushion fills out completely.<\/p>\n Close the opening with a slip stitch by hand for an invisible finish, or topstitch by machine if you prefer speed over neatness.<\/p>\n This is considerably quicker. Sew the two panels right sides together with the ties inserted at the rear corners, leaving a gap along the back.<\/p>\n Turn right side out, press the edges and insert the padding.<\/p>\n Close the gap.<\/p>\n If using fibre filling, add tufting: sew through all layers at four to six evenly spaced points with strong thread, pulling firmly and finishing with a small button or a few backstitches on each side. This holds the filling in position permanently.<\/p>\n Make one cushion completely and fit it to the chair before cutting anything else. Adjustments to the template are far cheaper at this stage.<\/p>\n Cut all remaining pieces at once from the same length of fabric so colour is uniform.<\/p>\n Keep the ties the same length across the set and tie them the same way, since inconsistent bows are surprisingly visible around a table.<\/p>\n Number the cushions if the chairs vary slightly.<\/p>\n Ties at the back corners are the standard solution and work well on chairs with vertical back uprights.<\/p>\n For chairs without suitable uprights, non slip matting cut slightly smaller than the cushion and placed underneath prevents sliding without any visible fixing.<\/p>\n Hook and loop tape on the cushion base and the seat is another option, though it can mark a polished timber seat over time.<\/p>\n Longer ties allow a bow, which looks softer. Shorter ties knotted tight give a neater, more contemporary finish.<\/p>\n Cushions make sense when the chairs themselves are sound and attractive but hard. They are a low commitment way to add comfort and they can be changed seasonally.<\/p>\n They are less effective on chairs that are the wrong height for the table or that have an uncomfortable back angle, since a cushion cannot correct posture problems and adding thickness reduces leg clearance underneath.<\/p>\n If your chairs are uncomfortable in more fundamental ways, a properly padded chair is a better solution than a cushion on a poor frame. Our range includes both simple wooden designs suited to cushions and fully upholstered options, and the complete selection sits alongside our modern dining tables UK<\/a> at Furniture in Fashion<\/a>, with free delivery to most UK mainland postcodes.<\/p>\n Four to five centimetres suits most chairs, giving real comfort without significantly reducing leg clearance under the table. Keep the gap between the cushion top and the underside of the table around twenty five to thirty centimetres.<\/p>\n Around half a metre of standard width fabric per boxed cushion, including the boxing strip and ties. Allow extra for pattern matching across a set.<\/p>\n If the chairs are in daily family use, yes. A zip in the rear boxing strip lets you wash the cover, which is far easier than spot cleaning a sealed cushion.<\/p>\n Medium firm foam wrapped in polyester wadding. It holds its shape through daily use, fills the cover properly and has a softer edge than bare foam.<\/p>\n Ties at the rear corners fastened around the chair uprights are the most reliable method. Non slip matting underneath works on chairs without suitable uprights to tie to.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Seat cushions are the quickest way to make hard dining chairs comfortable without altering them, and they bring washable colour and texture into a room otherwise dominated by timber and hard surfaces. This guide compares flat pad, boxed and tufted constructions and explains which suits…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":60289,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3334],"tags":[10,5254,5594,5539],"class_list":["post-60288","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to-guide-for-your-home","tag-dining-chairs","tag-home-projects","tag-seat-cushions","tag-sewing"],"acf":[],"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60288","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=60288"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/60288\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/60289"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=60288"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=60288"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=60288"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Cutting the Pieces<\/h3>\n
Sewing a Boxed Cushion<\/h3>\n
Inserting the Foam<\/h3>\n
Making a Flat Pad Cushion<\/h3>\n
Getting a Set Consistent<\/h3>\n
Keeping Cushions in Place<\/h3>\n
When Cushions Are the Right Answer<\/h3>\n
Frequently Asked Questions<\/h3>\n
How thick should a dining chair cushion be?<\/h3>\n
How much fabric do I need per cushion?<\/h3>\n
Should the cover be removable?<\/h3>\n
What is the best filling for a dining chair cushion?<\/h3>\n
How do I stop the cushion from sliding off?<\/h3>\n