You reupholster a dining chair with a fixed seat by working directly on the frame rather than removing a seat pad. Strip the old fabric off in place, keeping each piece as a template, repair or replace the padding while the frame is exposed, then fit the new fabric panel by panel, stapling to the frame and finishing the edges with piping, gimp braid or decorative tacks to hide the staple line. It takes longer than a drop in seat, but every stage is achievable at home with a staple gun, a tack remover and patience.<\/p>\n
Fully upholstered chairs, sometimes described as fixed seat or stitched over chairs, have their padding built onto the frame with the fabric stapled or tacked underneath and around the rails. There is no pad to lift out, which is what makes them look intimidating. The work is really a sequence of small, repeatable steps.<\/p>\n
Turn the chair over and look underneath. There will usually be a black dust cover stapled across the base. Peel a corner back and see how the seat is built.<\/p>\n
Look for webbing, springs or a solid platform. Webbing that has gone slack is the most common cause of a sagging seat and is straightforward to replace. Springs tied with twine indicate a traditional build and a more involved job. A solid plywood base with foam on top is the simplest of all.<\/p>\n
Check the frame for movement at the same time. Any loose joints must be reglued before new fabric goes on, because a chair that flexes will loosen the upholstery within months.<\/p>\n
Take photographs from every angle before touching anything. When you are three hours in and trying to remember how the fabric folded at the back leg, those pictures are the most valuable thing you have.<\/p>\n
You will need a staple gun with 8mm to 10mm staples, a tack remover or a flathead screwdriver and pliers, sharp scissors, a marker, a rubber mallet, spray adhesive, upholstery foam if the padding needs replacing, polyester wadding, calico or a hessian base cloth, your chosen top fabric, and a trim such as piping, gimp braid or upholstery tacks.<\/p>\n
Buy more fabric than you think you need. Fixed seat chairs use fabric on the seat, the inside back and the outside back, and pattern matching increases waste. For a standard dining chair, allow around 1.5 metres per chair for a plain fabric and more for a patterned one.<\/p>\n
Work in reverse order of assembly. That usually means removing the dust cover first, then the outside back panel, then the inside back, then the seat.<\/p>\n
Use the tack remover to lever out staples rather than pulling the fabric, which tears the pieces you want to keep as templates. Where staples are stubborn, lever them partly up and grip them with pliers.<\/p>\n
Label each piece as it comes off with a marker on the reverse: seat, inside back, outside back, along with which edge faces forward. Lay the pieces flat somewhere out of the way.<\/p>\n
Once the top fabric is off you will see the calico layer and the padding. Remove the calico if it is soiled, and keep going until you reach the frame or the platform.<\/p>\n
Replace webbing if it has stretched. Interweave new strips across the seat frame, pulling each one taut with a webbing stretcher or a block of wood, and staple with several fixings in a staggered pattern to avoid splitting the rail.<\/p>\n
Cut new foam to the shape of the seat using the old piece as a template. Use high density foam intended for seating, since anything softer will collapse. Bevel the top edge slightly so the fabric curves rather than creases over a square corner.<\/p>\n
Cover the foam with polyester wadding, wrapping it over the edges and down onto the frame. This layer is what gives the finished chair a smooth line rather than a boxy one.<\/p>\n
Fit a calico layer over the wadding and staple it to the frame, pulling firmly. This is optional on a quick job but it makes fitting the top fabric far easier, because you can perfect the shape in cheap cloth before committing your good fabric.<\/p>\n
Lay the old fabric piece on the new material, add 5cm all round for handling, and cut. Check the direction of any pattern or pile before cutting, since velvet has a nap that must run consistently down the chair on every panel. If you are unsure which weight of cloth to buy, looking at how ready made fabric dining chairs UK sale<\/a> options are covered gives a useful reference point.<\/p>\n Start with the inside back. Position the fabric, staple the centre top, then the centre bottom, pulling firmly. Work outwards from those centres, alternating top and bottom, then handle the sides. Where the fabric meets the back uprights, cut a small Y shaped notch so it can wrap neatly around the timber. Cut less than you think you need and extend the cut gradually, because a cut that goes too far cannot be undone.<\/p>\n Move to the seat. Staple front centre first, then back centre, then the sides, keeping tension even. At the front corners, form a single deep pleat rather than several small folds. At the back, notch the fabric around the uprights as before.<\/p>\n Finish with the outside back. This panel is usually fitted with a back tacking strip along the top edge so no staples show, then pulled down and stapled underneath. A strip of card or a purpose made tacking strip gives a crisp top line.<\/p>\n Refit a dust cover across the base to keep the underside tidy and stop dust falling out.<\/p>\n On a fixed seat chair the staples are visible where the fabric meets the show wood, so a trim is needed.<\/p>\n Gimp braid glued along the edge with a fabric adhesive is the traditional solution and covers a multitude of imperfections. Apply the glue to the braid rather than the chair, and work in short sections.<\/p>\n Double piping gives a more contemporary line and can be made from the same fabric or a contrasting one.<\/p>\n Decorative upholstery tacks suit leather and heavier fabrics. Use a tack strip with evenly spaced dummy heads if you want a regular line without hammering each one individually, since uneven spacing is very noticeable.<\/p>\n Reupholstering a fixed seat chair takes most of a day for the first one and perhaps half that for each chair afterwards. Materials for a set of six add up, particularly if you choose a good fabric.<\/p>\n It is worth doing when the frames are solid timber and worth keeping, when the chairs are part of a set you like, or when you want a fabric you cannot buy ready made. It is not worth doing on chairs with damaged frames, laminated timber or where the shape itself is uncomfortable.<\/p>\n If the exercise starts to look like a full week of work, comparing it against our modern dining chairs UK sale<\/a> range is a fair reality check. We also list complete modern dining table and chairs sets UK<\/a> where the chairs are already matched to the table, which removes the guesswork on proportions.<\/p>\nHiding the Staple Line<\/h3>\n
Is It Worth Doing?<\/h3>\n