Measure a round dining table by taking its diameter: run a tape measure straight across the widest point of the tabletop, passing through the centre, from one edge to the opposite edge. That single figure is the measurement retailers list and the one you need for planning a room. Also measure the height from the floor to the top surface, which should be 74cm to 78cm on a standard dining table.<\/p>\n
Two additional measurements matter if you are buying chairs or fitting the table into a tight space: the width of the base or pedestal at floor level, and the depth of any apron or frame beneath the top, which determines whether chairs with arms will slide underneath.<\/p>\n
The most common error is measuring a chord rather than the true diameter. If the tape does not pass through the exact centre, you will get a reading shorter than the real figure.<\/p>\n
To avoid this, take three or four measurements at different angles across the table and use the largest. The true diameter is always the longest straight line across a circle, so the biggest reading is the correct one.<\/p>\n
For a more precise approach, find the centre first. Measure the circumference by running a flexible tape around the outer edge, then divide by 3.14. This gives an accurate diameter even on a table where the exact centre is hard to locate visually.<\/p>\n
Measure the tabletop, not the base. Pedestal tables often have a base considerably narrower than the top, and framed tables sometimes have a top slightly overhanging the frame. The top is what determines seating capacity and clearance.<\/p>\n
An oval table needs two figures: the length across the longest axis and the width across the shortest. Both should pass through the centre point.<\/p>\n
Round extending tables usually open into an oval, so measure both the closed diameter and the fully extended length. Manufacturers list both, but if you are measuring an existing table, open it fully and take the length before deciding whether it will fit a space when in use.<\/p>\n
Check the extended footprint against your clearance, not just the table dimension. A table that extends by 50cm needs 25cm more clearance at each end when open, which is often where the plan falls apart.<\/p>\n
Round tables seat people around the circumference, so capacity depends on the perimeter rather than the surface area. Allow 60cm of edge per person.<\/p>\n
To work out how many people a table seats, multiply the diameter by 3.14 to get the circumference, then divide by 60. A 120cm table has a circumference of around 377cm, which divides into six places of just over 60cm each.<\/p>\n
As a quick reference for standard sizes: 90cm seats two to three, 100cm seats four, 120cm seats four to six, 140cm seats six, 150cm seats six to seven and 180cm seats eight.<\/p>\n
The higher figure in each range is achievable but snug. If you regularly host longer meals, take the lower number.<\/p>\n
A table measurement is only useful alongside a room measurement. Allow 90cm of clear space between the table edge and the nearest wall, unit or other furniture. That is enough to pull a chair out and sit down.<\/p>\n
Where people need to walk behind seated diners, increase that to 110cm or 120cm.<\/p>\n
Adding both sides, a 120cm round table needs a clear circle of roughly 300cm diameter, meaning a room of at least 300cm by 300cm with nothing else in it. In a room that also contains a sideboard, measure from the sideboard face rather than the wall.<\/p>\n
Mark the footprint on the floor with masking tape before buying. Include the clearance zone, not just the table outline. This takes ten minutes and prevents the most expensive furniture mistake there is.<\/p>\n
The base determines how many people can actually sit at the table, regardless of what the diameter suggests. A pedestal base leaves the entire perimeter free, so you can seat the theoretical maximum and slide chairs anywhere.<\/p>\n
A four leg base restricts seating to the spaces between legs. On a 120cm table with legs set near the edge, you may only comfortably fit four chairs rather than six.<\/p>\n
Measure the pedestal diameter at floor level too. A wide pedestal foot can catch chair legs when they are pushed in, particularly with chairs that have splayed or angled legs.<\/p>\n
Check the apron depth as well: the distance from the underside of the tabletop to the bottom of any frame. Chairs with arms need this to be shallow, typically under 10cm, or the arms will not fit under the table.<\/p>\n
Chair seat height should sit around 30cm below the tabletop. With a 75cm table, that means a 45cm seat height, which is the standard for most dining chairs.<\/p>\n
Measure chair width at the widest point, usually the arms or the outer edge of the seat. Divide the table circumference by that figure to check how many will physically fit, rather than relying on the 60cm rule alone, which assumes fairly slim chairs.<\/p>\n
Our range of modern dining chairs UK sale<\/a> lists seat height and overall width for each design, which removes the guesswork when matching chairs to an existing round table.<\/p>\n If you want to avoid measuring chairs separately, a matched set solves the problem. Our wooden dining table sets UK sale<\/a> pair table and chairs designed to work together at the correct heights.<\/p>\n A rug under a round table should extend at least 60cm beyond the table edge in every direction, so chair legs stay on the rug when pulled out.<\/p>\n For a 120cm table, that means a rug of at least 240cm diameter, or a 240cm square if you prefer a rectangular shape. Round rugs echo the table shape; square or rectangular rugs create a deliberate contrast, which can look considered in a modern room.<\/p>\n Browse modern rugs UK sale<\/a> for sizes that suit dining zones. Undersized rugs are the most common mistake here, and they cause chairs to catch on the edge every time someone stands up.<\/p>\n Write down five figures before you start looking at tables: the room dimensions, the maximum table diameter your clearance allows, the ceiling height if you are also fitting a pendant, the doorway width along the delivery route, and the height of any chairs you plan to keep.<\/p>\n The doorway measurement is frequently forgotten. A 140cm tabletop needs to get into the room, and a single piece circular top cannot be angled through a narrow door as easily as a rectangular one. Check the diagonal of every doorway on the route.<\/p>\n At Furniture in Fashion we list full dimensions for every table, including base width and apron depth, with free delivery to most UK mainland postcodes. You can compare round, oval and extending designs across the collection at Furniture in Fashion<\/a>.<\/p>\nMeasuring for a Rug<\/h3>\n
Recording Everything Before You Shop<\/h3>\n