To build a new wardrobe you clear and protect a working area larger than the wardrobe itself, lay out and identify every panel and fixing against the parts list, assemble the carcass on a flat surface with the back panel fitted before the piece is stood upright, then level it, secure it to the wall and hang the doors last. Almost every problem with a new wardrobe traces back to one of two things: the carcass being assembled out of square, or the piece being stood up before the back panel went on.<\/p>\n
Whether your wardrobe arrives flat packed or you are building one from sheet material, the underlying logic is the same. Structure first, alignment second, doors and fittings last. Working in that order means each stage can be checked before the next one hides it.<\/p>\n
Clear a floor area at least the height of the wardrobe plus a metre, because you will be assembling it lying down and then walking it upright. Lay cardboard or a dust sheet across the floor: this protects the carpet, protects the panel faces and stops small fixings rolling away.<\/p>\n
Check the ceiling height in the exact spot where the wardrobe will stand, then compare it with the wardrobe height plus the clearance you need to tilt it upright. A tall wardrobe assembled flat may not have room to rotate into position in a low ceilinged bedroom or a loft conversion, in which case you must assemble it standing, which takes two people and more time.<\/p>\n
Gather your tools before you begin: a cordless screwdriver with a clutch set low, a hand screwdriver for the final turns, a rubber mallet, a spirit level, a tape measure and a hex key. Working with the drill on a high torque setting is the fastest way to strip a cam lock hole.<\/p>\n
Open all the cartons and check the panels against the parts list. Look for edge damage, missing dowel holes and any warped board. It is far easier to resolve a missing panel before you have built three quarters of a wardrobe around the gap.<\/p>\n
Sort the fixings into small containers or a muffin tray. Cam locks, dowels, shelf pegs and screws of similar length are easy to confuse, and using the wrong screw length can push a fixing straight through a finished face. Read the whole instruction sequence once before starting, so you know which panel goes down first and which orientation the pre drilled holes require.<\/p>\n
Lay the base or one side panel face down on the protected floor. Insert the dowels and cam bolts as the instructions specify, then bring the adjoining panel into position and turn each cam lock until it grips. Turn cams by hand for the final movement so you can feel them engage rather than forcing them.<\/p>\n
Fit any fixed shelves or dividers as you go, since these brace the carcass and are impossible to add later. Once the four sides are together, measure both diagonals corner to corner. Matching diagonals mean the carcass is square. If they differ, ease the frame gently until they match, then fix the back panel immediately to lock it in that position.<\/p>\n
The back panel is structural, not cosmetic. If it is thin hardboard fixed with pins, add a few extra pins along the edges and centre rail. If it slides into a groove, check it is fully seated on all sides. A properly fixed back stops the wardrobe racking, which is what causes doors to fall out of alignment months later.<\/p>\n
Walk the wardrobe upright with a second person, lifting from the base rather than pulling on the top rail. Move it into position, leaving a small gap behind if it stands against an external wall so air can circulate and the board stays dry.<\/p>\n
Now level it. Put the spirit level across the base from side to side and front to back. Adjust the feet if the wardrobe has them, or slide thin packers under the plinth. UK floors are rarely flat, particularly over floorboards, and a difference of a few millimetres at the base becomes a visible gap at the top of a two metre door. Spend time here: it is the single most valuable ten minutes of the build.<\/p>\n
Fix the wardrobe to the wall with the supplied anti tip bracket or an equivalent. Locate a stud with a detector, or use the correct plug for masonry. Do not fix into plasterboard alone with a bare screw.<\/p>\n
This step is not optional. A tall wardrobe becomes unstable when a drawer is pulled out or when weight is loaded high, and a wall fixing costs nothing in time. It is essential in any household with children.<\/p>\n
With the carcass secure, add the internal components. Hanging rails usually sit in supports screwed to the side panels or into a top rail: check the rail is level so hangers do not slide to one end. Adjustable shelves rest on pegs, so make sure the pegs on both sides are at the same height, which sounds obvious and is often the cause of a shelf that rocks.<\/p>\n
Think about how you actually use the space before committing to shelf positions. Two short hanging rails stacked one above the other can double capacity for shirts and jackets, while a single long rail is needed for coats and longer dresses. Leave the base clear for shoes or storage boxes if that suits your household better than another shelf.<\/p>\n
Doors come last. Fit the hinge cups to the doors, screw the mounting plates to the carcass, then hang each door and use the hinge adjustment screws to set the gaps. Work in a logical order: align the outer edges to the carcass first, then set the gap between doors.<\/p>\n
Aim for even gaps of two to three millimetres, checked from top to bottom. Sight along the door faces at eye level to catch any door standing proud, and correct it with the depth adjustment. If your wardrobe has sliding doors instead, vacuum the base track before fitting, hang the panels from the head track and adjust the rollers until the panel edges run parallel.<\/p>\n
Fit handles using a simple drilled jig so every handle lands at the same height. Add door stops or magnetic catches if supplied, then load the wardrobe with heavy items low and lighter items high so the carcass carries weight near its base.<\/p>\n
Overtightening is the most frequent error. Cam locks and screws in engineered board need firm contact, not force, and a stripped hole is difficult to recover. Set the drill clutch low and finish by hand.<\/p>\n
Assembling on carpet without a board underneath is another. The soft surface lets panels flex as you tighten fixings, so the carcass sets slightly twisted. A sheet of hardboard or a few flattened cartons solves it.<\/p>\n
Finally, do not skip the diagonal check. Everything downstream, including door alignment, drawer travel and how the wardrobe looks against the wall, depends on the carcass being square before the back goes on.<\/p>\n
Some of the build experience is decided at the point of purchase. A design with a thicker back panel, adjustable feet, pre drilled hinge positions and clear instructions is quicker and more accurate to assemble than one without. Check the packed carton dimensions against your staircase and doorways too, since a long panel that cannot turn a landing is a problem no assembly technique can solve.<\/p>\n
Our modern wardrobes UK<\/a> collection covers hinged and sliding designs with full dimensions listed, and our 2 door wardrobes UK sale<\/a> options are usually the most straightforward first build. If the wardrobe is part of a wider refresh, our modern bedroom furniture sets UK<\/a> keep finishes and handle styles consistent, and adding a bedside cabinets UK sale<\/a> piece completes the room without a second delivery. At Furniture in Fashion<\/a> we offer free delivery to most UK mainland postcodes, so you can plan your build day with the cartons already in the room.<\/p>\n A two door flat pack wardrobe typically takes two to three hours with two people. Larger designs with drawers and sliding doors can take most of a day, particularly if you are levelling an uneven floor.<\/p>\n The carcass of a small wardrobe can be assembled alone, but standing it upright and hanging tall or mirrored doors genuinely needs a second person. Do not attempt to lift a full height door on your own.<\/p>\n Yes, always. The back panel holds the carcass square. Standing a wardrobe up without it allows the frame to rack, and the doors will never align properly afterwards.<\/p>\n You should. Tall wardrobes can tip when weight is loaded high or a drawer is opened, and the supplied bracket takes only a few minutes to fit. It is essential where children are present.<\/p>\n Insert a dowel or matchstick with a little wood glue, allow it to set, then refit using a slightly longer screw. Setting your drill to a low torque setting from the start prevents most stripped holes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Building a new wardrobe follows one dependable order: structure first, alignment second, doors and fittings last. This guide begins with the preparation most people skip, clearing a working area larger than the wardrobe itself, protecting the floor so panels cannot flex as you tighten fixings,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":57643,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3334],"tags":[361,5657,2179,5636],"class_list":["post-57642","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to-guide-for-your-home","tag-bedroom-storage","tag-flat-pack","tag-home-guide","tag-wardrobe-assembly"],"acf":[],"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57642","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=57642"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57642\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/57643"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=57642"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=57642"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.furnitureinfashion.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=57642"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Frequently Asked Questions<\/h3>\n
How long does it take to build a wardrobe?<\/h3>\n
Can one person build a wardrobe alone?<\/h3>\n
Should I fit the back panel before standing the wardrobe up?<\/h3>\n
Do I have to fix a wardrobe to the wall?<\/h3>\n
What if a hole in the panel is stripped or damaged?<\/h3>\n