To measure for a banquette bench, record five key figures: the length of the wall or alcove, the height of your dining table, the clearance under the tabletop, the depth you can spare from the room, and the position of any obstacles such as radiators, sockets and window sills. As a working guide, aim for a finished seat height of 45 to 48cm, a usable seat depth of 45 to 50cm, and around 55 to 60cm of seat length per adult. Leave roughly 25 to 30cm between the seat front and the table edge so people can slide in comfortably.
Careful measuring is what separates a banquette that feels natural from one that feels cramped. Whether you are planning fitted joinery or using a freestanding piece from our range of modern dining benches UK, the steps below will help you get the proportions right first time.
Gather a few simple tools:
Older UK homes rarely have truly straight walls or level floors, so measure in more than one place and use the smallest figure.
Start with the length of the wall where the banquette will sit. Measure at floor level, at seat height and at the height of the backrest. Walls can bow, and skirting boards or plaster ridges can make a difference of a centimetre or two.
If the banquette sits in an alcove or corner, measure each wall separately and note the angle. Corners in older properties are often not quite square. A large set square or a simple check using the 3, 4, 5 method can tell you how far off it is.
For bay windows, measure each section of the bay separately and record the angles between them. Bay banquettes nearly always need bespoke joinery, so a clear sketch with all measurements is invaluable when you speak to a maker.
Next, mark anything that might interfere with the banquette:
The table defines most of the banquette’s dimensions. Measure:
If you are still choosing a table, our dining table and chairs sets UK sale collection lists full dimensions, which makes it easy to plan the banquette and table together.
The finished seat height, measured to the top of the seat cushion when someone is sitting on it, should leave around 27 to 30cm between the seat and the tabletop. With a standard table, that gives a compressed seat height of about 45 to 48cm.
Remember that cushions compress. If you are planning a fitted base with a loose cushion on top, measure the base height and add the compressed cushion thickness, not the uncompressed thickness. A 10cm foam cushion might compress to 7 or 8cm when sat on.
Seat depth is measured from the front edge of the seat to the backrest. For comfortable dining, a usable depth of 45 to 50cm works for most adults. If you are using a wall with loose cushions as the back, measure from the seat front to where the compressed cushion will sit, not to the wall itself.
Too shallow and people perch on the edge. Too deep and they sit too far from the table, which is uncomfortable for eating. If the room is tight, 40cm is a reasonable minimum, though longer meals may feel less relaxed.
Allow about 55 to 60cm of seat length per adult. A banquette of 120cm will comfortably seat two adults, and a 180cm banquette will seat three. Children need less space, so a family of four might fit along a 150cm seat for everyday meals.
For L shaped corner banquettes, remember that the corner itself is less comfortable. People sitting there have their knees pointing at a table leg or corner. Many designers treat the corner as shared space rather than a full seat.
The relationship between the banquette and the table matters as much as the banquette itself. The front of the seat should sit under the table edge by a few centimetres, leaving a clear gap of around 25 to 30cm between the seat front and the table edge above. This gives enough room to slide in without having to move the table each time.
A pedestal or trestle base makes this far easier, as there are no corner legs to manoeuvre around. Our range of modern dining tables UK includes pedestal and trestle designs well suited to banquette seating. If you need flexibility for guests, an option from our extending dining tables UK sale collection lets you add length when the banquette is fully occupied.
On the open side of the table, leave enough room for chairs to be pulled out and for people to walk behind them. As a general guide, allow at least 90cm from the table edge to the nearest wall or obstacle, and more if this is also a walkway.
At either end of the banquette, leave space for people to get in and out. In a corner arrangement, at least one end should be open.
Before committing, use masking tape to mark the banquette footprint and the table position on the floor. If possible, place your table in position and sit on chairs at roughly seat height where the banquette will go. Spend a few minutes sitting, standing and moving around. This simple step catches most problems before any money is spent.
For more guidance on fitting tables into smaller spaces, our article on rectangular dining tables in small UK rooms covers clearances in detail. Our guide to dining tables with rounded corners for UK homes is also useful if you are planning a tight layout where hips and table edges might meet.
Write every figure on a simple sketch of the room, with the banquette wall drawn as a straight line and each obstacle marked in position. Note whether each figure was taken at floor level, seat height or backrest height. If you are working with a joiner, a clear sketch with consistent units, ideally all in millimetres, avoids confusion and expensive mistakes.
Take photographs of the space from several angles as well. They help a maker understand details such as skirting profiles, socket positions and the shape of the window reveal.
A well measured banquette feels effortless to use. Record the wall, obstacles and table carefully, aim for standard seat height and depth, allow enough length per person and leave a comfortable gap to the table. Mark it out on the floor before committing, and you will avoid the most common problems. Explore our dining range at Furniture in Fashion, with free delivery to most UK mainland postcodes.
Around 45 to 48cm from the floor to the top of the compressed seat cushion. This leaves roughly 27 to 30cm between the seat and a standard 75cm table.
A usable depth of 45 to 50cm suits most adults. In tight spaces, 40cm is a reasonable minimum, although it may feel less comfortable for long meals.
Allow about 55 to 60cm of seat length per adult. Children need slightly less.
It is best avoided, as it reduces heat output and can dry out timber and upholstery. If unavoidable, leave a ventilation gap and use a grille in the front panel.
Pedestal and trestle bases work best because they leave the table edges clear, making it easier to slide in and out.
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