To make a slipcover for a dining room chair, you measure the chair, cut fabric panels for the seat, the inner back and the outer back with a two centimetre seam allowance, pin them together directly on the chair with the fabric inside out, then sew the seams and finish the lower edge with a hem or ties. A basic seat only cover takes about an hour. A full cover with a skirt takes an afternoon per chair.
The skill in slipcover making is not in the sewing, which is mostly straight lines. It is in the pinning, because a cover fitted on the chair itself will always sit better than one cut from a paper pattern on a table.
There are three broad approaches, and choosing between them before you start saves a lot of unpicking later.
A seat pad cover is the simplest. It sits over the seat only, held by elastic or ties at the corners. It suits chairs with open backs and is the right project if you have never made one before.
A fitted cover follows the shape of the chair closely, wrapping the back and seat with shaped seams. It looks tailored and stays put, but it needs accurate pinning and only fits the chair it was made for.
A loose cover with a skirt drops from the seat to the floor or to just above it. It is the most forgiving of the three because the skirt hides irregularities in fit, and it changes the character of a dining room more dramatically than the other two.
Work with a soft tape measure and write everything down as you go. Measure the seat from front edge to back, and across at the widest point, which is usually the front. Measure the inner back from the seat up to the top rail, and across at its widest. Measure the outer back the same way, from the top rail down to wherever you want the cover to end.
If you are adding a skirt, measure from the seat edge to the floor and subtract one centimetre so the hem does not drag.
Add two centimetres to every measurement for seam allowance, and add a further five centimetres to the lower hem. Fabric is easier to trim than to extend, so err generously at this stage.
To calculate total fabric, lay out the panels on paper at scale against the width of your chosen material. Most upholstery fabric comes in one hundred and forty centimetre widths. A seat only cover needs about half a metre per chair. A full cover with a skirt needs one and a half to two metres per chair.
Slipcovers live differently to fixed upholstery because they are washed. That single fact should drive the fabric choice. Cotton canvas, cotton linen blends and heavyweight twill all wash well and press flat. Pure linen looks lovely and creases enthusiastically, which some people like and others find tiresome.
Prewash the fabric before cutting. Cotton and linen shrink on the first wash, and a cover cut from unwashed fabric will no longer fit after it has been laundered once. Wash it as you intend to wash the finished cover, then press it flat.
Avoid anything with a heavy nap or a directional pile for a first attempt. Velvet slipcovers can look wonderful but the pile direction has to run consistently across every panel, which adds a layer of complication. If a plush finish is what you are after, our velvet dining chairs UK sale deliver that look with the fabric already properly fitted.
This is the part that determines whether the finished cover looks tailored or homemade. Turn the fabric wrong side out and drape the seat panel over the chair seat, smoothing it flat and letting the excess hang over the edges.
Pin along the exact line where the seat meets the back and where it meets the front edge. Follow the chair, not a straight line. Then drape the inner back panel, pin it to the seat panel along their shared edge, and smooth it upwards over the top rail.
Bring the outer back panel up from behind and pin it to the inner back along the top and down both sides. Work with the pins running along the seam line rather than across it, so you can sew close to them.
Once everything is pinned, draw along each pinned seam with tailor’s chalk before you remove anything. That chalk line is your stitching guide, and it is far more reliable than trying to remember where the pins sat.
Remove the pinned cover carefully, keeping it inside out. Sew along the chalk lines using a straight stitch, starting with the seat to inner back seam, then the inner back to outer back seams.
Clip into the curved seam allowances at intervals so they lie flat when turned. Do not clip through the stitching. Press each seam open as you finish it, since pressing as you go makes far more difference to the final look than pressing at the end.
Turn the cover right side out and fit it to the chair. Mark any places where it is too loose, take it off, and take those seams in. It is normal to do this twice.
Finish the lower edge with a double folded hem. If you want the cover to stay put on a chair with legs, add fabric ties at the back corners that knot around the uprights. Elastic threaded through a lower casing works well on seat only covers.
A few details separate a good cover from an obvious one. Press the finished cover thoroughly before fitting it. Topstitch along the main seams for structure and a crisper outline. Match the thread carefully, since contrasting thread draws attention to every wobble.
For a skirted cover, decide between a flat panel skirt with corner pleats and a fully gathered skirt. Pleats read as more contemporary and suit modern dining rooms. Gathers feel softer and more traditional.
If you are covering a whole set, make one complete cover first and use it as your template for the rest. Making all six simultaneously means any mistake gets repeated six times.
Slipcovers earn their place in a few specific situations. Rented homes where the chairs cannot be permanently altered. Households with young children or pets where covers need washing regularly. Dining rooms where you want a seasonal change without buying new furniture. Chairs whose frames are sound but whose upholstery has dated.
They are less suitable where the chair shape is highly sculptural, since a cover flattens the profile that made the chair interesting in the first place. They also add bulk, so on chairs that already sit tightly under the table, the extra fabric can stop them tucking away.
If your chairs have reached the point where a cover is hiding rather than refreshing them, it may be worth looking at replacements instead. The modern fabric dining chairs UK range covers a wide spread of shapes, and pairing new seating with your existing dining tables UK sale is often a cleaner outcome than a set of covers over tired frames. At Furniture in Fashion we see both approaches work well depending on the room.
A seat only cover needs roughly half a metre. A full cover including the back needs about one metre, and a cover with a floor length skirt needs between one and a half and two metres per chair.
Yes. Cotton and linen shrink noticeably on the first wash, so a cover cut from unwashed fabric will no longer fit once you have laundered it. Wash and press before cutting.
A simple seat pad cover can be made with hemming tape and hand stitched ties. Anything with shaped seams around a chair back really needs a machine to hold its shape under use.
Fabric ties knotted around the back uprights are the most reliable method. Elastic in a lower casing works on seat covers, and a snug fit through accurate pinning does most of the work.
Cotton canvas, cotton linen blends and heavyweight twill all wash and press well. Avoid loose weaves and dress weight fabrics, which distort after a few washes.
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